Communism (Somoni) and Korjenevskaya peaks

Highlights

 Climbing Communism Peak (7,495 m) or Ismoil Somoni Peak is the highest seven-thousander of the five peaks of the Snow Leopard. It is the highest point not only in Tajikistan but also in the entire post-Soviet space.
 In addition, the program includes climbing Korzhenevskaya Peak (7,105 m) or Ozodi Peak, also located in the northwestern Pamir Mountains.

Program

Day 1

Arrival, hotel check-in, briefing

 You arrive at Dushanbe Airport. Your guide will accompany you to the hotel, help you check in, and invite you to a welcome dinner and briefing. You will also have free time to walk around the capital of Tajikistan.

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Day 2

Transfer to Jirgital

 On the morning of the second day, we will travel to the village of Jirgital (1,800 m) in a comfortable minibus. The journey will take about 7-10 hours. Upon arrival, we will settle into a cozy cottage and end the day with dinner and an introduction to traditional Tajik cuisine.

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Day 3

Flight to the Base Camp by helicopter

 Early in the morning on the third day, you will fly by helicopter to Moskvin Glade (4,300 m). This used to be the site of an international mountaineering camp, and now it remains the most convenient location for a base camp with a beautiful view of the Korzhenevskaya and Communism peaks.
 Accommodation is available in tents or cabins, with three meals a day, electricity in the evenings, and communication facilities.

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Day 4

Training and acclimatization

 This is a rest day at base camp and acclimatization to the altitude, which makes itself felt even on the approach. As a warm-up, we will walk to a mountain lake and conduct rope training.

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Day 5

Climb to the First Camp of Korzhenevskaya Peak

 On the fifth day, we will make our first significant trek to the First Camp (5,100 m). We will cross the Moskvin Glacier, climb a scree ridge, and emerge under the glacier flowing down the slopes of Korzhenevskaya Peak. Here we will spend the night in high-altitude tents.

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Day 6

Climb to the Second Camp of Korzhenevskaya Peak

 We will not stop there and will trek even higher — to the Second Camp (5,600 m). You will cross a glacier covered by snow and set up camp under a large wall with an impressive view of the mountain valley. At this point, we will spend two nights in tents.

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Day 7

Radial acclimatization climb

 We will finish the first week in the Pamir Mountains by climbing to an altitude of 6,000 meters. To do this, we will make a radial acclimatization trip to the Third Camp (6100 m). The route includes climbing along the railings and then along a glacier to the ridge. After the climb, we will return to the second camp.

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Day 8

Descent to the Base Camp

 On the eighth day, the entire route will be downhill. First, we will descend to the First Camp. From there, we will continue our descent to the comfort of base camp on the Moskvin glade.

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Days 9-10

Rest days

 We will devote two days to rest, walks in the surrounding area, and preparation for the ascent of Korzhenevskaya Peak.

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Day 11

Climb to the First Camp of Korzhenevskaya Peak

 From this day on, it’s only uphill! We will make another transition to the First Camp (5,100 m) and stay there overnight.

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Day 12

Climb to the Second Camp of Korzhenevskaya Peak

 Following a familiar route across a closed glacier, we will climb to the second camp and also spend the night in tents.

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Day 13

Climb to the Fourth Camp of Korzhenevskaya Peak

 On this day, we will trek to the Fourth Camp (6,350 m). The route includes an ascent along the snowy ridge of Korzhenevskaya Peak. We will spend the night in tents at the Fourth Camp.

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Day 14

Summit day: Ascent of Korzhenevskaya Peak

 We will mark our second week in the Pamirs with our first major victory — the ascent of Korzhenevskaya Peak (7,105 m). An early start, an active assault on the mountain, and you will be on one of the seven-thousanders of the Snow Leopard program!
 This momentous day will end with rest at the starting point — the fourth camp.

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Day 15

Descent to the Base Camp

 After a long descent, we return, as if home, to the Base Camp on Moskvin’s glade to rest.

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Days 16-18

Rest days

 A minimum of three days is needed to rest and prepare for the main goal — climbing Communism Peak. All this time, we will be recovering at Base Camp.

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Day 19

Trek to the First Camp of Communism Peak

 We will start heading towards the highest point of the Pamir Mountains. We will begin with a transition to the First Camp (4,400 m). We will cross the moraine and finish at the edge of the Walter Glacier. Here we will spend the night in tents and admire the beautiful view of the north face of Communism Peak.

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Day 20

Climb to the Second Camp of Communism Peak

 Transfer to the Second Camp (5,300 m). One of the main tasks is to cross the Walter Glacier and pass through an avalanche-prone area before the sun shines on it. Therefore, an early departure is planned. After passing the difficult section, we will climb the ridge using fixed ropes and spend the night in tents at the second camp.

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Day 21

Climb to the Third Camp of Communism Peak

 We leave the Second Camp and climb the ridge to the Third (5,800 m). Here we spend the night in tents against the backdrop of a magnificent mountain panorama with views of the Moskvin glade and Korzhenevskaya Peak.

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Day 22

Climb to the Pamir Firn Plateau

 The goal for this day is to climb the double-peaked “Brests” (6,100 m) and descend to the Pamir Firn Plateau (5,900 m). The route involves active work with ropes. The reward is a view of two beautiful peaks: Communism Peak, which is already very close, and Dushanbe Peak. Overnight stay in tents.

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Day 23

Ascent of Dushanbe Peak

 On this day, we will climb almost 1000 meters and ascend to the summit of Dushanbe Peak (6950 m). The next point will be Ismoil Somoni Peak, but only after a good rest in tents at the assault camp below the summit.

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Day 24

Rest, preparation

 A day of rest at the assault camp or completion of the ascent of Dushanbe Peak, if snow conditions prevented us from completing the climb the previous day.

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Day 25

Summit day: Ascent of Communism Peak

 The main day for those who dreamed and did it — the ascent of Communism Peak! Early in the morning, we start along the ridge and climb the steep firn “shovel.” After that, we will reach the bridge and continue the ascent along the firn ridge.
 And now, you are at the highest point of the former USSR and the Pamirs! We take photos, congratulate ourselves and the team, and descend to rest at the assault camp.

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Day 26

First day of descent

 The main task of the day following the ascent is to descend as low as possible to the Fourth, Third or Second camps.

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Day 27

Descent to the Base Camp

 Descent to base camp on Moskvin’s glade — to the benefits of civilization, comfort, and communication.

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Days 28-30

Reserve days

 We leave three reserve days in case of bad weather.

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Day 31

Flight to Dzhirgital and transfer to Dushanbe

 From base camp, we fly by helicopter to the village of Dzhirgital, where a transfer to Dushanbe awaits you. The flight from Dushanbe home is scheduled for the next day.

Conditions

 We’re happy to provide you with standart services which are included into program and additional services on the request. We offer a loyalty program for groups and returning clients. Groups of four or more receive a 5% discount for each participant. Additionally, you’ll get a 5% discount on every second trip with us. Discounts can be combined for even greater savings!

Equipment

Clothes

Thermal Underwear

Thin Fleece Jacket and Pants

Thick Fleece Jacket

Storm Shell Jacket and Pants

Hat

Neck Gaiter (Buff)

Balaclava

Warm Jacket (Down)

Gloves

Mittens

Over-Mittens

High-Altitude Mountaineering Boots

Socks

Summer Clothes

Rain Jacket and Backpack Cover

Hiking Boots

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Equipment

Harness

Carabiners

Belay Device

Ascender

Helmet

Ice Axe

Crampons

Trekking Poles

Sunglasses

Ski Goggles

Summit Backpack

Duffel Bag

Sleeping Bag

Sleeping Pad

Prusik Cord

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Other

Thermos

Headlamp

Personal First Aid Kit

Sunscreen

Hygiene Kit

Documents

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