Khan Tengri Peak by South Route

Highlights

 Climb one of the most beautiful seven-thousanders in the world – Khan Tengri, whose pyramidal peak rises above three countries at once: Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and China.

Program

Day 1

Arrival and hotel accommodation

 Arrival and hotel accommodation
 The ascent of Khan Tengri from the south is possible from Kyrgyzstan, so the program will begin with your arrival in Bishkek. A guide will accompany you from the airport to the hotel and help you with the necessary paperwork for the climb.
 On the same day, we will check your personal equipment and take a walk around the capital before dinner and an evening briefing.

---

Day 2

Transfer to Kar-Kyra Camp

 Early in the morning, we leave Bishkek for the Kar-Kyra base camp (640 m). On the way, we will see the famous and beautiful Lake Issyk-Kul. In the foothills of the Central Tien Shan, a tent camp and a buffet will be waiting for you.

---

Day 3

Flight to the Base Camp

 The day will begin with a helicopter flight to the South Inylchek base camp (4000 m). This is a glacier in the very center of the Tien Shan, with an excellent view of the seven-thousanders Khan Tengri and Pobeda Peak. There is also a tent camp here, and three meals a day are provided by a high-altitude chef.

---

Day 4

Snow and ice trainings

 We spend the whole day in the vicinity of the South Inylchek camp – we go on an acclimatization walk, prepare for the ascent, and practice our glacier skills.

---

Day 5

Hike to the First Camp

 We leave the South Inylchek Glacier and cross it to reach the first camp (4,100 m). We stop for the night in tents at the foot of Chapaev Peak and go to bed early.

---

Day 6

Climb to the Second Camp

 This day will begin at night because we need to make the transition to the Second Camp (5,300 m). And to minimize the risks when passing the dangerous “Bottle” spot, we will start long before dawn.
 We will climb the Semenovsky Glacier in rope teams. In the first half of the day, we will stop to rest in our tents before continuing the next day.

---

Day 7

Climb to the Third Camp

 The week will end with a climb to the Third Camp (5,800 m) under the Khan Tengri peak. From here, there is a fantastic view of the “Lord of the Sky” pyramid. And the first night at a significant altitude is ahead.

---

Day 8

Descent to the Base Camp

 We will return to base camp at 4,100 m via the same route, where an excellent meal prepared by our high-altitude chef will be waiting for us.

---

Days 9-10

Rest days

 These are days of rest, acclimatization, and preparation for the climb that many climbers around the world dream of.

---

Day 11

Hike to the First Camp

 Evening departure and stop at the First Camp (4,100 m) below Chapaev Peak.

---

Day 12

Climb to the Third Camp

 We leave early in the morning, overcome the “Bottle” and make the climb to the Third Camp (5,800 m). We stop for the night in tents. If the physical condition of the group members allows, we can make an assault on the summit from here, without moving to the fourth camp.

---

Day 13

Climb to the Forth Camp

 It’s time to cross the 6,000-meter mark and move to the Forth Camp. You will climb a ridge and ascend to open areas at altitudes of 6,100 m/6,400 m. We will spend the night in tents and prepare for the ascent.

---

Day 14

Summit Day: ascent of Khan Tengri

 Ascent to the summit of Khan Tengri (7,010 m). The route includes numerous ropes, rocks, a narrow couloir with a sheer wall, and a snow dome. After overcoming all the challenges and earning the mountain's favor, you will reach the summit!
 The descent will require no less effort than the ascent. On the way to Third Camp (5,800 m), dozens of rappels are expected.

---

Day 15

Descent to the Base Camp

 We return to the South Inylchek base camp (4,000 m), from where we can admire the view of the majestic Khan Tengri with a mixture of disbelief and admiration.

---

Days 16-18

Reserve days

 We leave spare days for bad weather, because according to ancient legends, Tengri, who lives here at the summit, has a harsh temper.

---

Day 19

Flight to Kar-Kyra Camp

 This unforgettable mountaineering experience will conclude with a flight to Kar-Kyra Base Camp and departure to Bishkek.

---

Day 20

Free day in Bishkek

 A free day in Bishkek, which is worth spending getting to know the hearty and delicious Central Asian cuisine and choosing souvenirs to remember hospitable Kyrgyzstan.
 The flight home is scheduled for the next day.

Conditions

 We’re happy to provide you with standart services which are included into program and additional services on the request. We offer a loyalty program for groups and returning clients. Groups of four or more receive a 5% discount for each participant. Additionally, you’ll get a 5% discount on every second trip with us. Discounts can be combined for even greater savings!

Equipment

Clothes

Thermal Underwear

Thin Fleece Jacket and Pants

Thick Fleece Jacket

Storm Shell Jacket and Pants

Hat

Neck Gaiter (Buff)

Balaclava

Warm Jacket (Down)

Gloves

Mittens

Over-Mittens

High-Altitude Mountaineering Boots

Socks

Summer Clothes

Rain Jacket and Backpack Cover

Hiking Boots

Expand

Equipment

Harness

Carabiners

Belay Device

Ascender

Helmet

Ice Axe

Crampons

Trekking Poles

Sunglasses

Ski Goggles

Summit Backpack

Duffel Bag

Sleeping Bag

Sleeping Pad

Prusik Cord

Expand

Other

Thermos

Headlamp

Personal First Aid Kit

Sunscreen

Hygiene Kit

Documents

Expand