Khan Tengri Peak by North Route

Highlights

 Climb Khan Tengri to understand why the ancients called this legendary peak “Lord of the Sky”! This seven-thousander on the border of Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and China is one of the most sought-after destinations for climbers from all over the world.

Program

Day 1

Arrival and hotel accommodation

 The long journey to “Khan” will begin with your arrival in the capital of Kyrgyzstan, the hospitable city of Bishkek. A guide will meet you at the airport, accompany you to your hotel, and help you with the necessary paperwork.
 The program for the first day includes checking equipment, dinner, and an evening briefing. There will even be time for a walk around the city.

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Day 2

Transfer to Kar-Kyra Camp

 Early in the morning, we will leave Bishkek for the Kar-Kyra base camp (640 m). On the way, we will pass by the famous Issyk-Kul Lake. In the foothills of the Central Tien Shan, there is a comfortable mountain camp with a buffet system offering eco-friendly local products.

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Day 3

Helicopter flight to the Base Camp

 In the morning, you will take a helicopter flight to the North Inylchek Base Camp (4000 m). Here, in the heart of the Central Tien Shan, with an excellent view of the famous north face of Khan Tengri, there is a comfortable tent camp. It will serve as your base camp during the preparation period for the ascent. Another advantage is three meals a day prepared by an experienced chef who knows how to feed climbers.

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Day 4

Acclimatization, snow and ice training

 We enjoy our stay in the mountains and prepare our bodies for the climb. To do this, we will take an acclimatization walk and conduct training on the glacier.

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Day 5

Climb to the First Camp

 For the first time, we will leave the Severny Inylchek Base Camp and transfer to the First Camp (4200 m). To do this, we will cross part of the glacier, which has a total area of over 200 kilometers! You will also climb the snowy slope of Chapaev Peak and spend the night in a tent on the ridge with an even more impressive view of Khan Tengri.

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Day 6

Climb to the Second Camp

 We will climb even higher and cross the snowy slopes to Second Camp (5,300 m). This trek requires the use of ropes. We will spend the night here in tents.

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Day 7

Ascent to the shoulder of Chapaev Peak

 We will mark the first week in Kyrgyzstan with a radial ascent to the shoulder of Chapaev Peak (6,100 m). We will also end the day with an overnight stay at the Second Camp.

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Day 8

Descent to the Base Camp

 Here you will descend more than 1000 meters — we return to the North Inylchek Base Camp (4000 m) to our beloved cook and the opportunity to rest before the main ascent.

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Days 9-10

Rest days

 We will spend several days resting at the Base Camp, walking and acclimatizing, while our bodies adjust to the hard work ahead.

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Day 11

Climb to the First Camp

 The rest period is over. Now it’s time to head uphill! We cross the glacier and the slopes of Chapaev Peak again and climb to the First Camp (4,200 m). We spend the night in tents.

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Day 12

Climb to the Second Camp

 We confirm that the previous days of preparation have not been in vain and practically fly into the Second Camp (5,300 m), again practicing our rope work on the route. We spend the night in tents.

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Day 13

Climb to the Third Camp

 The morning begins with an ascent along the familiar route to the shoulder of Chapaev Peak, but with a descent to the ridge — to the Third Camp (5,900 m), where we will spend the night in tents. The reward for this day is a fantastic view of Pobeda Peak! From here, you can also see the ridge along which we will make our main ascent tomorrow.

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Day 14

Summit day: Climbing Khan Tengri

 Early rise and summit push to Khan Tengri peak! To reach the summit, you need to overcome rocks, a narrow couloir, a snow dome, and many ropes. But you are well prepared, and here is the goal — an altitude of 7,010 m!
 Everyone who climbs a seven-thousander gets a bonus — an exciting descent to the Third Camp, overcoming dozens of abseils.

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Day 15

Descent to the Base Camp

 We will spend the whole day descending to the North Inylchek Base Camp (4000 m) — you will lose almost 2000 meters in altitude and pass through various mountain terrain.

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Days 16-18

Reserve days

 We leave two days for bad weather.

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Day 19

Flight to Kar-Kyra camp and transfer to Bishkek

 We say goodbye to the Base Camp and descend by helicopter to Kar-Kyra camp. From here, without staying overnight, we leave for Bishkek.

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Day 20

Free day in Bishkek

 A free day in Bishkek, which is enough to see the main sights of the city and visit the bazaar. Departure from the capital’s airport is the next day.

Conditions

 We’re happy to provide you with standart services which are included into program and additional services on the request. We offer a loyalty program for groups and returning clients. Groups of four or more receive a 5% discount for each participant. Additionally, you’ll get a 5% discount on every second trip with us. Discounts can be combined for even greater savings!

Equipment

Clothes

Thermal Underwear

Thin Fleece Jacket and Pants

Thick Fleece Jacket

Storm Shell Jacket and Pants

Hat

Neck Gaiter (Buff)

Balaclava

Warm Jacket (Down)

Gloves

Mittens

Over-Mittens

High-Altitude Mountaineering Boots

Socks

Summer Clothes

Rain Jacket and Backpack Cover

Hiking Boots

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Equipment

Harness

Carabiners

Belay Device

Ascender

Helmet

Ice Axe

Crampons

Trekking Poles

Sunglasses

Ski Goggles

Summit Backpack

Duffel Bag

Sleeping Bag

Sleeping Pad

Prusik Cord

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Other

Thermos

Headlamp

Personal First Aid Kit

Sunscreen

Hygiene Kit

Documents

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